SHAWL MAKING

The process of making an Albasir shawl, which is a type of traditional handwoven textile often associated with Kashmir, involves several intricate steps.

1. RAW MATERIAL PREPARATION –

Selection of Wool

• Source of Wool: The finest quality wool used for making high-end shawls, such as Pashmina and Shahtoosh, comes from the undercoat of specific breeds of goats. For Pashmina, the wool is sourced from the Changthangi goats found in the Himalayan region. Shahtoosh wool comes from the Tibetan antelope (Chiru).
• Shearing: The wool is harvested during the molting season when the goats naturally shed their wool. It is carefully collected to ensure minimal damage to the fiber.

Cleaning

• Scouring: The raw wool contains impurities like dirt, grease, and vegetable matter. It is cleaned through a process called scouring, which involves washing the wool in warm water with mild detergents to remove these impurities.
• Rinsing: After scouring, the wool is thoroughly rinsed to remove any remaining detergent and impurities.

2. COMBING –

• Carding: The cleaned wool is carded using hand carders or a carding machine. Carding involves brushing the wool to disentangle the fibers and remove any remaining impurities. This process aligns the fibers and prepares them for spinning.

• Combing: For finer wool, an additional combing process is done to further align the fibers and remove shorter strands. Combing produces a smoother and more uniform fiber, essential for high-quality shawls.

3. SPINNING –

Spinning Preparation

• Roving: The carded and combed wool is drawn out into long, narrow bundles called rovings. These rovings are easier to handle and prepare the fibers for spinning.

Method

• Hand Spinning: The rovings are hand-spun into yarn using a traditional spinning wheel, known as a “charkha.” Hand-spinning allows for better control over the thickness and consistency of the yarn, which is crucial for the texture and quality of the shawl.

• Plying: Sometimes, multiple strands of yarn are twisted together to create a stronger and more durable yarn. This process is known as plying.

4. DYEING –

–Mordanting

• Mordants: A mordant is a substance that helps the dye bond with the wool fibers. Common mordants include alum, iron, and copper.
• Mordanting Process: The wool is soaked in a mordant solution before dyeing. This step is crucial as it enhances the wool’s ability to absorb the dye and improves color fastness.

–Preparation of Dye

Natural Dyes

Traditional Albasir shawls often use natural dyes, which are derived from:

• Plants: Indigo (blue), madder root (red), turmeric (yellow), henna (brownish-red), pomegranate rinds (yellow/green).
• Minerals: Iron for black/grey shades.
• Insects: Cochineal for vibrant reds and purples.

Synthetic Dyes

Modern dyeing techniques may incorporate synthetic dyes, such as acid dyes, for a wider range of colors and more consistent results

–Dyeing Process

Preparation of Dye Bath

• Natural Dyes: Plant materials or other natural sources are boiled in water to extract the dye. The extract is strained to remove solid particles.
• Synthetic Dyes: Synthetic dyes are dissolved in water, often with the addition of an acid (like vinegar or citric acid) to enhance color uptake.

Immersion and Heating

• Immersion: The pre-mordanted wool is immersed in the dye bath. It is essential to ensure the wool is fully saturated and evenly exposed to the dye.
• Heating: The dye bath is gradually heated to a specific temperature, which helps the dye penetrate the wool fibers. This temperature is maintained for a period to ensure even dyeing.
• Stirring: The wool is gently stirred periodically to ensure the dye is evenly distributed.

– Rinsing and Washing

• Rinsing: After dyeing, the wool is removed from the dye bath and rinsed in lukewarm water to remove excess dye.
• Washing: The dyed wool is washed with a mild detergent to ensure any residual dye and mordant are removed. This step helps set the color and prevents future bleeding.

– Fixation

• Fixing Agents: Sometimes, additional fixing agents are used to ensure colorfastness. These agents help the dye bond more securely to the wool fibers.
• Post-Dye Treatments: Treatments like steaming or heating can also help fix the dye.

– Drying

• Air Drying: The dyed wool is carefully hung or spread out to dry. It is important to avoid direct sunlight, as this can cause the colors to fade.
• Even Drying: The wool should be turned occasionally to ensure it dries evenly.

– Quality Control

• Inspection: Each batch of dyed wool is inspected for color consistency and evenness. Any unevenly dyed or defective wool is set aside for reprocessing.
• Testing: Samples may be tested for colorfastness by washing and exposing them to light to ensure the dye holds well.

5. Warping and Loom Setup

• Warping: The dyed yarn is stretched and arranged on a warping frame to prepare the warp threads (the vertical threads on a loom).
• Loom Setup: The warp threads are meticulously transferred onto the loom, ensuring they are evenly spaced and correctly tensioned.

6. Weaving

• Handloom Weaving: Artisans weave the shawl on a traditional handloom, interlacing the warp and weft threads to create the base fabric. This process requires precision and expertise.
• Pattern Weaving: For shawls with woven designs, the patterns are integrated during the weaving process itself.

7. Design and Embroidery

• Pattern Making: Traditional motifs such as paisleys, flowers, and geometric patterns are planned and marked. These designs are often inspired by nature and Kashmiri culture.
• Embroidery: Skilled artisans hand-embroider the shawls with intricate designs using fine threads. This step can take weeks or even months, depending on the complexity of the pattern.

8. Finishing

• Washing: The woven and embroidered shawl is washed to remove any residual dyes and to soften the fabric.
• Softening: The shawl may be treated with natural softeners to enhance its texture.
• Trimming and Fringing: The edges of the shawl are trimmed and often finished with fringes or tassels for a polished look.
• Blocking: The shawl is stretched and pinned to ensure it retains the correct shape and dimensions.

9. PACKAGING –

Packaging Albasir shawls involves several key steps to ensure they arrive in perfect condition and provide a luxurious unboxing experience:

• Quality Check: Each shawl undergoes a thorough inspection to ensure there are no defects.
• Cleaning and Pressing: Shawls are given a final wash and pressed to remove any creases.

• Protective Wrapping: Shawls are wrapped in acid-free tissue paper and sometimes placed in a breathable dust bag for added protection.

• Branding: Each shawl is fitted with a brand label and tags detailing material, care instructions, and authenticity.

• Custom Boxes: Shawls are packaged in custom-designed, sturdy boxes that reflect the brand’s luxury status.

• Additional Protection: Soft padding materials are used to cushion the shawl inside the box.

• Outer Packaging: The branded box is placed inside a larger shipping box with additional protective packing materials.

• Labeling and Documentation: Shipping labels and necessary documentation, such as invoices and authenticity certificates, are included.

• Final Inspection and Sealing: The entire package is inspected one last time and securely sealed to ensure it is tamper-proof.

Please call our Customer Care for any query. (9am to 6pm) +91 9463 777 888 or write @ info@albasir.in.

LAST UPDATED: By SHREYA PAHUJA & MUSKAN / 12-06-2024